How to Measure Boys for Suits

With Spring and Summer come all the very special occasions that mark milestones in our lives.  Weddings, Communion, Baptisms, Graduations, Bar and Bat Mitzvah celebrations and all manner of parties dot our calendars.  And of course you want the entire family to look their absolute best!  Getting a proper fit is so important, for comfort and appearance, and it only takes a little effort to ensure a great fitting suit.

Special Occasion clothing is mostly fully constructed garments and may fit differently from casual clothing.  Additionally, most are made of substantial, traditional fabrics that stretch very little, if at all, so a good fit is important for comfort.  Everyone looks better in clothes that fit!  If you are ordering online, it pays to have your boy’s measurements in hand when comparing with size charts and guides.  A size chart is different from a size guide in that a size chart is a measure of the garment itself, while a size guide is a general guideline of sizing based on height and weight or general measurements of the child.  If you are using a size chart, you will add ½-1 inch to the measurement of the child to get the measurement of the garment.

Measuring can be tedious for some children, and they will want to squirm and play around while you are trying to get a good measurement.  Be prepared with your measuring tape and paper & pencil to write down the numbers so that you can be as efficient as possible.  If you do not have a flexible measuring tape, you can simply take the measurement with a string and then measure the string next to a yardstick.  It’s also a good idea to take each measurement twice to ensure accuracy.  If the child is slouching, sucking in his tummy or moving, you may not get a good measurement.  Make sure to place the tape gently and not pull it tightly around or leave it loose.

To start, the child should be dressed in undergarments or tight-fitting clothing and standing straight.  Bulky clothing will cause inaccuracies in your measurements, so if he must be dressed, tight-fitting clothing is best.  (Imagine if you were trying on clothes while already fully dressed!)  He should also remove his shoes for inseam or outseam measurements.

The following is a list of measurements to have on hand:

1.   Sleeve Length:  Measure the sleeve length from the top of the shoulder blade where you can feel the bone that sticks out from the shoulder all the way down to just past the wrist bone.  The wrist bone should be covered, so that when he raises his arms, his sleeves will not be too short.  This measurement is different than a man's sleeve length, which starts at the back base of the neck, down the shoulder, to the elbow and then the wrist.

2.  Chest:   Measure around the boy's torso directly beneath his armpits - this will be the widest part of his chest.  The overarm measurement is taken around the body in the same manner and position as the chest measurement, but this time include both arms (arms down at sides).

3.  Neck:  Some shirts will require a neck measurement.  Measure around the neck at the base where his shirt would normally fit when buttoned all the way up.

4.  Jacket Length:  Measure the jacket length by placing one end of the measuring tape on the nape of the neck (at the seventh vertebra, where the top of a collar would be) and taking the tape down to the base of the buttocks. This would be the correct length for a standard jacket. If you are measuring for a three quarter length jacket or tailcoat you will have to measure down to just above the back of the knee.

5.   Waist:  It is important to measure from the actual waist and not the hips. The modern trend for wearing trousers that hang low around the hips can lead to incorrect measurements.  Measure his natural waist, or where he would comfortably wear a belt.  For most children, this is over or just above the navel and the smallest point of his waist and just above the hip bones.  Many boys pants up to about size 7 or 8 come with elasticized or adjustable waistbands and usually allow 2 or 3 inches of movement either way.  Make sure he is standing up straight but not sucking in his tummy, or his pants will be too tight.

6.  Hips:   Wrap the tape measure around the fullest part of his bottom for the hip measurement.

7.  Inseam:  The inseam is measured from the crotch (where the seams of his pants would come together) to the bottom of the ankle bone to as far as an inch below the ankle bone.  Inseam  measurement is usually rounded to the next half inch.  If the child can’t sit still for this one, you can also measure a pair of pants that fit him well.  Pant length is the easiest alteration to make, so err on the side of too long if you are not sure or if it will be a long time before the event.  (They do grow!)

8.  Outseam/Leg:  Measure from the waist to the bottom of the ankle bone to as far as an inch below the ankle bone.  Be sure to measure from the top of the natural waist, not the hip bone.

A Word About Foundations
Yes, good, old-fashioned foundations.  If you're going to dress up, you might as well do it right.  First, boys, just like everyone else, need good undergarments.  Dress shirts require an under shirt.  If it's going to be hot, consider a ribbed tank top instead of a traditional tee-shirt.  Wearing a "regular" tee will add bulk, so opt for an undershirt.  Underwear should be in a complimentary color, so it won't show (for example, wear white underwear with white pants).  Unlike girls, boys spend less time dressing this way and even older boys may not think of this.  What could be more embarrassing than visible black underwear under light, linen pants?

The tie.  Unless he's in the wedding party, a boy can use his tie to express his personality and make his mark.  Choose something tasteful, but unique.  This is the place for color-pop, sassy prints or something personal.  If he's really dressing up, how about a nice, matching pocket square?  Choose something in an unexpected shade that plays off a minor color in either the tie or jacket.

The belt.  If he is wearing a cummerbund or pants without belt loops, you can leave the belt off.  Otherwise, he needs one.  If you can find it, a good-quality belt with a tasteful buckle really pulls an outfit together.  Choose a belt that matches the formality of the suit - for example a leather dress belt with suit pants, a braided or cloth belt with khakis or jeans.  Also, keep in mind the simple rule of belt matching:  the belt should match the shoes.  For example, shiny black shoes, shiny black belt.  Choose a belt in one size larger than the pants.  Don't be afraid to splurge a little - belts fit a long time.

The shoes.  Keep in mind that dress shoes usually run about a size smaller than casual shoes.  Wearing them just once?  Consider renting dress shoes from the tuxedo shop, borrowing from a friend or purchasing inexpensive ones.  If he'll wear them more often, choose comfortable, flexible, natural materials (ideally genuine leather) and soles with good traction.  He's still a boy, after all, and he won't want to sit still.  Everyone looks and feels better in good shoes.  His socks should match either his pants or his shoes.  Seriously.  No white socks with black shoes and dark pants.

Other accessories.  If he's got jewelry, like a watch, cufflinks, a special ring or necklace, this is the time to wear it!  But leave behind friendship bracelets, paracord or leather cuffs and hemp necklaces.  If he wears earrings, a simple stud or hoop is appropriate-nothing too flashy, or simply leave them off.  And don't leave his hairstyle to the last minute - fresh haircuts can look choppy.  Give it a few days to grow into it's style.  And a little pomade or gel never hurt, either.  * wink  Or wear a hat - hats are uber stylish these days, and they really pull a look together.  Don't forget to review hat etiquette with your little guy, as he won't know when to take it off if you don't tell him.  Men do not wear their hats indoors.

Special considerations for body type:

For the thin or tall boy:  If your child is tall and slender, probably size charts won't show any combination that will fit him.  Fit pants around the waist and choose long sizes or brands that are cut long intending for a custom hem.  Jackets can be tailored to fit narrow shoulders or tall boys.  An ill-fitting or too big jacket will swallow him, a too-short one will show his waist & wrists and look like he has grown out of it.

For the big boy:  If your boy is a little bit big or stocky, you will have similar problems with size charts not being representative.  For pants, choose a size and style that flatters his waist and hips.  Avoid pleats and long-cut pockets for a slimmer look and choose a good-fitting belt.  Go for straight-leg styles, rather than "skinny" ones.  Pants will be inexpensive to hem.  Make sure the jacket fits his shoulders and chest comfortably - if it's scrunchy, he'll just take it off.  As with the pants, buy the size to fit the widest bits and have the length adjusted.

Additional Tips: 

• Do some research before you hit the stores.  Shop around on major retailers' websites and specialty stores alike to determine what you can reasonably afford.  You may be surprised to find that boutiques and specialty stores are often competitive in price and offer personalized service and quality product lines.  
• Always opt for quality fabrics-the best you can afford.  Additionally, alterations are easier to do with quality materials.  Thin wool suits look dynamite, and they breathe comfortably.  A comfortable boy will feel confident, stand tall and look fantastic.
• If you are shopping in a brick-and-mortar store, bring your boy along to model the suit for optimal results.  If you are shopping online, use your measurements and order with plenty of time for alterations or exchanges.  Study the size charts to figure out the best match, and call customer service if you need assistance or recommendations.
• Look for deals at consignment and second-hand shops.  Compromise on pants fit to get a good-fitting jacket.  Pants are easier to alter than suit coats.
• If money is no object, or you have a boy who is hard to fit, consider having the suit completely custom made.  Inquire with a local tailor or seamstress to make arrangements.  You may be pleasantly surprised to find that it may not be as expensive as you think.
• Dad didn't catch mom by looking like a slouch.  Got a stylish guy in your inner circle?  Why not send the boy shopping with Dad or Uncle Fred?  Just make sure they know how formal the occasion is and what their timeline is.  This is the perfect male-bonding ritual - dad (or Grandpa, or Uncle Joe) taking his boy to buy his first suit.

Armed with his measurements, you are ready to shop!  Always allow plenty of time for delivery and read item descriptions and delivery times carefully.  When in doubt, call customer service for advice.  A good boutique or formalwear shop will cheerfully answer your questions.  Starting out with the right size and ending with enough time to make any needed alterations will ensure a good-fitting suit and a dapper boy on your special day.

The Little King (www.thelittlekingboutique.com) has a great selection of boys' tuxedos, suits and accessories.  Click here for the spring Special Occasion Department.